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| This vegetable crop made me stop on the way ! |
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| Came across a Tiraha , asked the way to Alamchand |
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| This is the road towards Alamchand |
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| As I entered , saw this lakhori Brick-walled House |
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| Old Lady suspecting us to be a govt official followed us through |
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| Pucca Makan |
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| Lane |
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| Maulvi Iqbal's Mansion ! |
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| Another view of this grand structure ! |
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| Two of the best structures stand jointly ! |
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| Raza Husain Sahib's Mansion |
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| Inside the pillared doorway |
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| Khan Bahadur Haji Sayyid Muhammad Raza Husain |
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| Tere diye jalane wale Kahan gaye ! |
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| Lane |
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| At least here is a boundary ! |
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| Loud Speaker & Board over the mosque parapet |
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| Inside view of the mosque. Would you locate my laptop bag ? |
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| Front view of the mosque |
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| Inside the mosque |
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| Out of Village now |
Alamchand is
an old village of Pargana Chail . Today it falls under the block -Mooratganj in
district Kaushambi (formerly in Allahabad).
Location
It is a remote village lying on the north-west outskirts of
Pargana Chail. Nearby Villages are Sikandarpur Bajaha (1.4 km),Adampur Nadir
Ali (1.5 km),Lohra (2.6 km) ,Barai Salem (2.6 km) Balihawan Deh (2.9 km) and
Narvar Patti.
Name & Origin
The real name of this village is Narna .The popular name is Alamchand. The name of the revenue Mauza is still Narna and its derivation is ascribed to a story related with Emperor Alamgir.
Initially it was a small village that gained importance after it was taken as an abode by a branch of the Bukhari Naqvi Sayyids who settled here in the late 7th Century Hijri. We do not find any important event related with this village in any of the annals from 7th century till 11the AH. However during the medieval period Alamchand gained an importance for being an important halting point on the Royal route from Delhi to Allahabad known as Sarai Narna.
Sarai' is a Persian word meaning ' Hostelry ' or Inn. During the Sultanate & Mughal era the halting places for caravans and travelers were known as Serai or Sarai. Since Narna was located exactly on the original GT Road, it might have developed gradually into an important halting place for the royal as well as the common caravans. No body could enter the City of Prayag / Ilahabas without halting at Alamchand. Since we don’t find any mention of a Sarai at Alamchand in history prior to 15th Century AD it boils downs that the village developed as Serai only during the late 16th century .
This sarai Narna must have been a huge and important place indeed as no important book of travelogues of the medieval history is without a mention about Alamchand. We find a short description of this Sarai in the book by Jewish Father Tieffenthaler.
Joseph Tieffenthaler was a Jesuit Father, born at Botzen about 1715.In 1743 he arrived in Goa, and lived in India travelling into northern part of India around 1750-1770. He mentions as follows :-
Ref:The mid-Gangetic region in the eighteenth century,
some observations of Joseph Tieffenthaler by SN Sinha (1976)
The importance of Alamchand as a Sarai can be gauged from the fact that the archaeological survey of India got few coins of King Ferdinand of Spain from Alamchand. See the excerpt below.
Book :Title The journal of the Numismatic Society of India,
Volumes 10-12
Published 1949
History
The history of the settlement of zamindars of
Alamchand village is again associated with the life and times of Qazi
Husam-ud-Din Hasan Bukhari.
Through my earlier writings, you must be aware
about Qazi Husam-ud-din who was sent by Firoz Shah Tughlaq to put down the
rebellion of Bhars around Kara and how Qazi Sahib defeated the Bhar chiefs and
settled in Parsakhi.
When Firoz Shah Tughlaq heard the news of the
victory of Qazi Sahib, he was elated and gifted 22 villages as reward to Qazi Sahib
for his sustenance and settlement in this area. Narna was indeed amongst those
villages since we find that Qazi Sahib gave it to one of his sons Qazi Sayyid
Meet.
Qazi Sayyid Meet moved to Narna and settled here.
He had his son Sayyid Naseeruddin born here. He was a valiant and adventurous
man. In jungles and ravines along the Ganges laid the strongholds of many
bandits .He would take on the local brigands, encountered the Bhars and chased
the vagrant boatmen groups who used to rob and commit burglaries around the
village and even killed the people for nothing. Hence Qazi Meet had to lead a
soldier’s life. Apart from keeping a posse of armed group he himself would live
a combatant life. Furthermore he had to supply men to the royal forces as and
when required for a battle as per the custom of that era. Hence the Sayyids of Narna were known to be a
belligerent group who could live without food but not without a bout.
In the late 17th Century, this soldiery and
militancy took an ugly shape when the Sayyids of Alamchand fought a battle with
Sayyids of Badegaon for some pattidari* lands. This fight took place at Alamchand.The unfortunate result was so macabre that not a single male was left alive in Alamchand; all the male
members were slain in the fight. Only the wife of one Sayyid Daud could run
away with her single son in her lap. This child grew up amongst his maternal
and was known as Sayyid Ilah’Diya. This Sayyid Ilah’Diya is the ancestor of the
whole lot of Naqvi Sadaat of Alamchand.
Note *The pattidari land was one in which descendents
of a common ancestor had divided the lands of their ancestral patrimony
following genealogical principles where usually some lands such as orchards,
tanks and some waste land were held in common.
After this ghastly incident Alamchand got deserted and not a single family of
Zamindar could be found there or could dare to live there.When the local brigands and local chiefs found
no one at Alamchand to check them , they rose and started creating disturbances in the
environs again. The entire area simmered at the mercy of the robbers, bandits,
criminals who prevailed scot free. The common man of the environs was too scared to make a
counter against them.
Mirat al Jalali reports (though not confirmed by comtemporary historical record) that After the battle in 1659 against Prince Shuja , on his return from
Allahabad to Delhi Emperor Aurangzeb halted at Alamchand and saw the pitiful
condition of the desolated village of Narna. He was told about the fight that
laid the village waste. He called for Sayyid Daud, the only survivor and
successor of the Zamindar family of Alamchand. Sayyid Daud was called from his
Nanihal, was resumed in his possessions and re-established as the zamindar of
Narna and it was that time Alamgir changed the name of the village to
Alamchand.
Battle of Sarai Alamchand
Another important historical event associated with
the village is a battle of 1712.
On August 2, 1712 - a very important battle was
fought near Alamchand wherein Sayyid Abdul Ghaffar advanced at the head of
3,000 men to bar the progress of, Abul Hasan Khan, a Sayyid of Bijapur, who was
Sayyid Hassan Ali Khan Barha's Bakhshi. Abul Hasan Khan's was victorious and it
confirmed the position of Sayyid Hassan Ali Khan Barha and made it clear that the Sayyid Brothers of Barha were
allied against the Emperor for the new contender Prince Farrukh siyar.
Stay of Emperor Shah Alam II at Alamchand
During his return journey - on 13th April 1771 the
Emperor Shah Alam II advanced from Allahabad to Sarai Alam Chand where he halted
for 19 days planning his march to Delhi and expecting to be joined by his Wazir
Shuja-ud-Daulah.At the time of this above mentioned meeting with the Emperor at
Sarai Alam Chand, Shuja gave the Emperor 10 lakh in cash, carriages, tents,
some other articles. This meeting is recorded in almost all the chronicles of that era and Alamchand gained a enviable place in the annals of history.
Book :
Fall of the Mughal Empire, Volume 2
Author :
Sir Jadunath Sarkar -----Page 397
Book :
Shuja ud Daulah
Author :
Ashirbadi Lal Srivaastava
Historical references
In below I have compiled a few important historical references that I found in the old annals of history.
1) During the British era, Alamchand was also known
throughout the empire for its huge indigo factory established by the British.
One of its tank could still be seen in Alamchand. The Encylopaedia Britannica
of 1902 mentions the following.
Book :
The Encyclopaedia Britannica: latest edition.
Authors : Day
Otis Kellogg, William Robertson Smith Publisher:Werner, 1902
2) The famous Mrs.Parlby has also mentioned her stay
at Alamchand.She mentions about the Mahua fruit she saw at Alamchand.
Book :Begums,Thugs
and Englishmen: The Journals of Fanny Parkes. - Page 70
Author :Fanny
Parkes Parlby, (William Dalrymple)
March 27th- We quitted Allahabad , and drove the
first stage to Alamchand, where we were kindly received by friends. At this
place I first remarked the mowa (Mahua) tree (Bassia longifolia). The fruit was
falling and the natives were collecting it to make bazaar srab (ardent
spirits). The fruit, which is white, only falls during the daytime.
3)Jean-Baptiste Tavernier (1605 –1689) the famous French traveller and trader who is most known for his work known as “ Les Six Voyages de Jean-Baptiste Tavernier” (Six Voyages, 1676) too passed through Alamchand en route Allahabad. Here is the excerpt.
SELECTIONS FROM TRAVELS IN INDIA BY JEAN BAPTISTE
TAVERNIER -BARON OF AUBONNE
Translated from the original French Edition of
1676.
Oxford University Press
London: Humphrey Milford, 1925
CHAPTER 8 -
The 6th [December] to Alamchand, 9 coss. About two
leagues on this side of Alamchand, you meet the *Ganges*. Monsieur *Bernier*,
Physician to the King, and a man named [[95]] Rachepot, who was with me, were
surprised to see that this river, so much talked about, is not larger than the
Seine in front of the Louvre, it being supposed that it equalled in width, at
the least, the Danube below Belgrade. There is actually so little water between
the months of March and June or July, when the rains commence, that boats are
not able to ascend it. On arrival at the Ganges, we each drank a glass of wine
which we mixed with water-- this caused us some internal disturbance; but our
attendants who drank it alone were much more tormented than we were. The Dutch,
who have a house on the banks of the Ganges, never drink the water of the
river, except after it has been boiled; as for the native inhabitants, they
have been accustomed to it from their youth; the Emperor even and all his court
drink no other. You see every day a large number of camels which do nothing
else but fetch water from the Ganges.
4)William Fordyce Mavor
(1758–1837), compiler of educational works, in his famous “historical account
of the most celebrated voyages “ has described the coniditon of Alamchand
Book :Historical
account of the most celebrated voyages, travels – Vol 24
Author :William
Fordyce Mavor
Publisher:Printed for E. Newbery, 1801
)5The famous Peter Mundy has also mentioned
Alamchand ki Sarai in his marvelous Memoirs.
Peter Mundy
(floruit 1600-1667) was an English travelle from Penryn in Cornwall.
Book :The
travels of Peter Mundy in Europe and Asia, 1608-1667
Author :Peter
Mundy
Sadaat-i-Naqvi of Alamchand
As mentioned earlier the erstwhile zamindars of
Alamchand are descended from Sayyid Meet s/o Qazi Husam-ud-Din Hasan Bukhari
who was a Naqvi Sayyid from the Bukhari family of Uchh.
If you recall the unfortunate fight and then Aurangzeb's effort to re-inhabitate the village. Sayyid Daud was called and re-installed at the village. This Sayyid Daud had a son named
Sayyid Swaleh and Sayyid Swaleh had Sayyid Abdul Nabi and from this line is
descended the entire lot of the Naqvi Sadat of Alamchand.
Mirat al Jalali produces an imperfect and incomplete genealogical table of
the Naqvis of Alamchand ;still it has
its reference value a lot for the generations to follow.
Famous Persons
During the period of Shah Alam II (1728–1806),
Sayyid Muhammad Aashiq was a very famous zamindar & military general of
Mughal era from Alamchand. He cleared the ravines along the Ganges and
eliminated the criminal gangs and tumultuous boatmen from there. He took on
Bhars and chased them out several times. Shah Alam Badshah who was at Allahabad
at the time was very happy to hear about Sayyid Ashiq’s bravery and gave him a
letter of Appreciation. The vindictive Bhars who were looking for an opportunity
got eventually one when they struck him at night and killed Sayyid Ashiq.
Emperor Shah Alam was quite upset when he heard about Sayyid Ashiq’s death.
Later on he called his minor Son Sayyid Ghulam Haider and asked him to join the
royal forces, got him trained and appointed in the army of Nawab of
Murshidabad.
Thus Sayyid Ashiq moved from Alamchand and settled at Murshidabad in Bengal and served
Nawab Kasim 'Ali Khan Bahadur, Nusrat Jang [Mir Muhammad Kasim], Nawab Nazim of
Bengal, Bihar and Orissa, (1760-1783) for several years.According to Mirat’al
Kunain , the reason for a branch of Naqvis of Alamchand converting to Shia
faith during the late 18th Century was this association of Sayyid Ashiq with
Murshidabad and Nawab of Murshidabad.
Khan Bahadur Sayyid Muhammad Raza Husain - See photograph above !
An illustrious figure from Alamchand, Khan Bahadur
Sayyid Muhammad Raza Husain was the son of
Sayyid Ali Raza , descended from the same Sayyid Ashiq as mentioned
above. He was born in 1849, initially took service in Police, later on posted
as a Kotwal in Bareilly where he earned laurels for his remarkable judgment and
equanimity in managing the crucial events. He was noted to be an outstanding man throughout his career as a police officer.The British Govt. awarded him the title of Khan Bahadur in 1901. After retirement form
Police he was called by the Nawab of Rampur to work as a Collector in Rampur. He
was a distinguished person of his era. He wrote a travelogue about his travels
(Ziarat) of Hajj and visits at Iraq & Iran. In Allahabad he constructed
Jannat Mahal in Hasan Manzil and a mansion in Alamchand as well. He was
survived by his daughters without a son. A photograph of him is attached here.
Sayyid Ameer Husain was a well read litterateur
from Alamchand in the 19th century.
Sayyid Mazhar Husain Naqvi, a DSP in UP Police was
from the last lot of distinguished ones from Alamchand. Perhaps his name and
fame is the singular reason for today’s generation to know about Alamchand. His
son Wasif Naqvi is a forest officer in Maharashtra. His brothers were Muhammad
Ahmad and Tufail Ahmad Naqvi.......but their home is now in ruins...
To relate and connect you to the last century of Alamchand I am putting here the names of some of the well known from the past century. Basheer Ahmad Mukhtar, Muhammad Hasan and his
sons Muhammad Raza, Mustahsan and Ahsan Sahiban. Abdul Sattar, Ali Akbar ,
Naseer Ahmad, Ghayyur Ahmad, Ali Haidar, Manzoor Ali, Mohsin Ali were the well
known persons from Alamchand. One Abul Hasan Sahib moved to Pakistan
Hakeem Muhammad Qasim and Maulvi Ameer Ahmad were also the learned ones from the village.
Hakeem Muhammad Qasim and Maulvi Ameer Ahmad were also the learned ones from the village.
Sayyid Ali Amjaad ( Anjan Darogha) and his sons
namely Sayyid Ali Zuhad Naqvi famously known as Shakeel Damar and Ali Irshad
Naqvi known as Jameel are also from Alamchand. Sayyid Muhammad Rafi Naqvi
Advocate is also from Alamchand.
When I visited Alamchand I found Mr.Jauhar Abbas
Rizwi and Sayyid Abu Muhammad Sahiban who are originally from Bisauna VIA
Peepalgaon. I learnt about Mr.Tanveer Aftab (Ausaf ) from the only Naqvi family
of Ali Akbar Sahib still residing in Alamchand.
Today’s Alamchand is a mere shadow of its past.
Barring one no Naqvi family is residing here whereas the more
prominent inhabitants are the two Rizwi families of PeepalGaon who migrated to
Alamchand 60-70 years ago.
These two families of Rizwis from Bisauna came and settled here from PeepalGaon in the middle of the last century, namely Meer Ata Husain and Meer Ansar Husain. Maulvi Iqbal Husain son of Meer Ansar was a well known figure of the past.
These two families of Rizwis from Bisauna came and settled here from PeepalGaon in the middle of the last century, namely Meer Ata Husain and Meer Ansar Husain. Maulvi Iqbal Husain son of Meer Ansar was a well known figure of the past.
The original Naqvi Sadat have almost entirely
forsaken the village. The paternal house of Deputy Mazhar is into ruins while
the brick mansions of Sayyid Raza Husain and his kins are still standing well-maintained. A lot of families who live in Allahabad probably find it too far
off OR do not get time to even visit their ancestral place ;whereas those who are based out of
Allahabad have gone out of question at all. Such is the condition of a village
which was one of the jewels in the crown of zamindars of Chail. The transition
from the value based life to the commerce based life has played havoc with
everything from makan to Makeen.
Alamchand is silent now. Today there is no royal hustle bustle or any preparation for a impending battle. It seemed to me that it is saying " I have had enough of blood-shed, fight and intrigues so far , no more please.. leave me alone now. I have already entertained a lot from Europe to Asia.I have lost guts to take on any more........please for god sake......leave me alone , I want to be at rest now.... and really it stands alone there .......resting , silent and solitary ......
When I got up to leave …..an old lady commented , Miyan ab yahan kya dhara hai, us waqt aatey jab Log Sachche Aur Makaan Kachche Hua Karte The !
Alamchand is silent now. Today there is no royal hustle bustle or any preparation for a impending battle. It seemed to me that it is saying " I have had enough of blood-shed, fight and intrigues so far , no more please.. leave me alone now. I have already entertained a lot from Europe to Asia.I have lost guts to take on any more........please for god sake......leave me alone , I want to be at rest now.... and really it stands alone there .......resting , silent and solitary ......
When I got up to leave …..an old lady commented , Miyan ab yahan kya dhara hai, us waqt aatey jab Log Sachche Aur Makaan Kachche Hua Karte The !
I didn’t look back at the dilapidated houses while
stepping in the car …….. A couplet came to my mind
Akele Ghar se poochti hai be-kasi
tere diye jalane wale kiya huwe
But Suddenly rose the AZAAN for Asr and I stepped
out of the car and ran towards Masjid .......
Ye ek Sajdah jise too Giran Samajhta
hai
Hazaar Sajdon se deta hai Aadmi ko
Nijaat !
**************************************************************************
Do you remember the initial lines of Surah Ar-Rum
(7-9)
They know but the outer (things) in the
life of this world: but of the End of things they are heedless.
Do they not reflect in their own minds?
Not but for just ends and for a term
appointed, did Allah create the heavens and the earth, and all between
them:
yet are there truly many among men who
deny the meeting with their Lord (at the Resurrection)!
Do they not travel through the earth,
and see what was the end of those before them?
**************************************************************************
Was'salaam
Khalid
Bin Umar
New Delhi
WRITE TO ME @
khalid.umar@in.ey.com
OR
khalid.bin.umar@gmail.com